Langton Matravers to East Fleet Farm (27 miles)
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It is amazing how loud birdsong can be when you are camping in tents. The song can pierce deep slumber as was the case with the blackbird and song thrush that woke me up on a sunny morning in Tom's Field. Percy bemoaning the snoring that woke him rather than the birds, led the way in healthy breakfasts with a pork pie and some yoghurt covered nuts. It is also amazing what bizzare combinations one eats on these energy draining jaunts, but there is no doubt you need it. Not sure about the pie at 8 o'clock though!
Unfortunately we had to say goodbye to Duncan
(the globetrotting IT man) who had to head east due to work commitments whilst we headed off west towards Corfe castle.
We then turned left and headed towards the sea. After yesterday's gloom, wind and rain (which did ease a little) today's sunshine and clifftop views of the sea were exillerating to say the least. We reached a place called 'Heaven's gate' (where my sunglasses could still be now) and surveyed the scenery.
The cliff top ride along the Kimmeridge ridges was fantastic with the tower to our left http://www.isleofpurbeck.com/clavel.html and the isle of Portland ahead in the distance. One waymaker even pointed to ‘Scratchy Bottom’. We had a steep descent to Worbarrow Tout which was too much to cycle down and then we stumbled upon Tyneham. http://tyneham.org.uk/ This was a piece of luck as we may have missed this by taking another route and also the place isn’t open all year round. I won’t eulogise about the place too much so I’ve included a link to the website concerning the place – I personally found it fascinating. Ironically it was crawling with a busload of German tourists.
Through Tyneham we walked which had some amazing old woodland around, (which we did stumble across lots enroute)– perfect for flycatchers but no time to investigate. As we started the very steep ascent to the top of the ridge again one of our number found the freshest, widest and deepest cowpat to stand in. His cries of despair and curses cheered me up all the way to the top of what was a painful push uphill. Fortunately Lulworth ranges weren’t firing so we carried along the cliff tops and although some paths weren’t for bikes and the fences and stiles meant we had to lift our ridiculously heavily laden bikes up and over, we still had immense fun being off-road in the sun with stunning scenery. Lulworth cove, Durdle Door Swyre Head all passed before we paused to take in the view high above Ringstead Bay where we passed two cracking NT sites with some great future campsites in the valleys to our left.
Portland was becoming much clearer and looking back one got a sense of achievement at the ride we had covered in the previous day and a half. After spotting a couple of yellowhammers and munching on more ‘energy’ food we set off on the Osmington Road and ate the miles up descending fast into Weymouth.
After surveying people ‘waddling’ along the promenade whilst we supped a cuppa and then headed through the town and it wasn’t long before we reached East fleet campsite on Chesil Beach. This place, although vast, seemed less cramped than Tom’s field. The staff were true to their word and gave our pitch for free which was to be their donation to our cause. They gave us a huge pitch high up on the hill overlooking the site and the fleet. Facilities were fine but the showers were unbelievably immense.and free. Imagine your own scandanavian wooden shower block with individual wet rooms, power shower, toilet and sink in each little room.
Whilst the other two were supping ales I wandered down to the lagoon at the fleet with my bins to indulge in a bit of birding. I followed a narrow path lined high hedges which followed the edge of the lagoon. It was here that I saw at common whitethroat with food going back and forth to it’s nest. Wandering past reed beds I saw a reed warbler then I turned inland. The 2 mile circular walk back to campsite takes in a famous church that appeared in the smuggling book ‘Moonfleet’. http://www.weymouth-dorset.co.uk/fleet.html I had a little look around this and headed back for well earned beers and a burger.
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